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Althoughthestaplefoodsdidnotdifferbetweensocialstrata,itwasthenobilitythat
consumedthebestqualitywhitewheatenbread,meatandfishpottages,venisonand
additionallyusedlargequantitiesofexpensivespices.Onlytheaffluentcouldafford
todrinkwineandthebestqualityaleandbeer.
ItwouldbeimpossibletocomprehendmedievalandRenaissancedieteticswithoutan
understandingoftherudimentsofthetheoryofhumours,whichhadinfluencedthe
Westernworldfromancienttimes.Thetheorywasderivedfromasystemofanalysis
developedbyGreekphysiciansofantiquity,particularlybyGalen,whobelievedthat
thehumanbodydependedforitsexistenceonfourrelatedhumours:blood,choler
oryellowbile,phlegmandblackbileormelancholy.Thetheoryofthefourhumours
dictatedwhatingredientstouseandwhatcookingmethodstochoosetoachieve
atemperatestate,i.e.,warmandmoist.Becausepeoplehaddissimilartempera-
ments,itwasessentialforthecooktoachieveasuitablemethodofcooking,bearing
inmindthatheatdriedthefoodandboilingwouldmoistenit.Ingreathouseholds
physiciansmightbeengagedtodrawupadetaileddietforthemaster,dependant
onthemaster'sowntemperament.Physiciansalsopartookindesigningmenusand
servedasadviserstocooks.
Aprofessionalcookhadtoknowthecriteriawhichtoldhimhowtopreparerelatively
safedishes.Themostpracticalcriteriontobeusedbythecookwasadefinitionof
thetemperamentofanaverageperson,whichwasmoderatelywarmandmoderately
moist.Themedievalcook'sgoalwasthentopreparefoodwhichwasmoderately
warmandmoderatelymoist,asthiswasthesafestfoodtobeservedtolargenum-
bers.Asfoodswerecharacterisedbyindividualqualities,thecookhadtoeitheruse
asuitablecookingmethodorprepareappropriatesaucestotemperanyunhealthy
ingredients,oruseingredientswhichcounterbalancedthe‘bad'ones.Themostcom-
monlyusedtemperingagentswerespices,herbs,sugar,andvinegar.Inaddition,
somecolouringagentswerealsoregularlyusedsincecolourwasasimportantas
humoralbalance.80
80
Laterwritersassessingthetasteofdishespreparedaccordingtomedievalrecipeswerenotim-
pressedbytheirgeneralcharacteristicsand,whatismore,theyoftencriticizedtheselectionof
ingredientsandespeciallytheoveruseofspices.Whattheyoftenforgotwasthehumoraltheory
andthenecessarybalanceoffoodqualitiesratherthantheimportanceofthetasteofthefood.
Forinstance,thepublisherofTheFormeofCuryconsideredthattherecipes“donotappearby
anymeanstobewellcalculatedforthebenefitofrecipients,butratherinimicaltothem.Many
ofthemaresohighlyseasoned,aresuchstrangeandheterogeneouscompositions,meerolios
andgallimawfreys,thattheyseemremovedasfaraspossiblefromtheintentionofcontributing
tohealth;indeedthemessesaresoredundantandcomplex,thatinregardtoherbs,inNo.6,
nolessthantenareused,whereweshouldnowbecontentwithtwoorthree:andsothesallad,
No.76,consistsofnolessthan14ingredients.”TheFormeofCury:ARollofAncientEnglish
Cookery,ed.S.Pegge(London,1780),pp.xvi-xvii.
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